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Somewhere you should go… Pipsdish, Covent Garden

Making the leap from pop-up to permanent resident isn’t the easiest thing for any restaurateur, but its something that Philip Dundas seems to have taken in his stride. Leaving the humble beginnings of the ex-Citroen garage in Islington behind, the team have relocated to a semi-permanent set up in Covent Garden.

Done up like ya gran’s front room, or rather Philip’s gran’s front room (the wardrobe was actually hers!), the quirky, homely design is indicative of their ethos: home-cooked food, locally sourced and a limited menu… well, actually no menu at all. Pipsdish is a get-what-your-given place but in the loveliest and warmest way.


The day I visited they were serving winter vegetable soup with sorrel and homemade bread to start. The main was either lamb stew or a fennel gratin served with a deliciously crisp and fresh salad. Everything comes direct from the field on a Monday morning, and the team of chefs get to work designing the week’s daily changing menus. The food is always seasonal and never more than a week old – who could ask for more?


No one at the company is formally trained in cooking but that doesn’t seem to matter, in fact it’s more to their favour. Pip doesn’t believe in the formality of cooking you might see elsewhere and he’s even published a book about it, Cooking without Recipes. The food is delicious and the attitude authentic, which seems to be scarce these days. They offer lunchtime specials at a bargain £12 or you can get a takeaway lunch for only £6. If you are in need of some independent therapy amongst the knotweed of chain restaurants in central London, this will definitely float your boat. (Words: Laura Thornley)

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