Depending on your culinary preferences, you’ve gotta love or loath a steakhouse. Those in the latter camp will usually be turned off by the carnivorous undertones of chowing down such hunky chunks of meat sweating in its own juices, more suited for famished business-types (or sardonic haters of cows).
But a quality steakhouse should be willing to shy away from its raw, 19th century roots, and present itself as a competitive contender in fine dining. This appears to be the philosophy of The Door in the City, a bar and grill which recently opened its second branch and goes out of its way to offer diners a truly decadent experience.
Dominating two floors, the interiors are proudly opulent, with the classy decor defined by wood seats, olive-coloured accents, and a mix of gleaming spotlights and mirrors. It’s clearly positioned itself as the locale of choice for suited and booted city slickers who’ll pop in for boozy lunches or after-hour nightcaps, and be impressed by a menu which offers a variety of well-sourced steaks, plus oysters.
I visited for lunch, and had the Wild Mushroom and Baby Spinach Sauté as a starter, a generous spectacle of veg with two crispy croutons, which delightfully soak up the tastiest, accompanying jus. Fittingly, this was followed up with steak, and in this case, a fillet Argentine black Angus, with a side of new potatoes and french beans. It was a choice selection (they mature their meat for up to six weeks!), tender to taste despite being medium to well-done, and made more flavoursome with a smudge of English mustard. Finally, a blueberry pie with creme fraiche topped off the meal; it was delightfully tart, yet slightly tamed by the cream dollop.
The entire meal for one plus tip came up to £50, so you’re not gonna get a budget lunch here; think chic eats for a corporate crowd and altogether quite a lovely addition to the City dining scene. (Words: MEC)[stextbox id=”custom”]The Door, 33 Cornhill Tube: Bank Price: (£££££) Further info: www.thedoor-group.com [/stextbox]