But a quality steakhouse should be willing to shy away from its raw, 19th century roots, and present itself as a competitive contender in fine dining. This appears to be the philosophy of The Door in the City, a bar and grill which recently opened its second branch and goes out of its way to offer diners a truly decadent experience.

Dominating two floors, the interiors are proudly opulent, with the classy decor defined by wood seats, olive-coloured accents, and a mix of gleaming spotlights and mirrors. It’s clearly positioned itself as the locale of choice for suited and booted city slickers who’ll pop in for boozy lunches or after-hour nightcaps, and be impressed by a menu which offers a variety of well-sourced steaks, plus oysters.

I visited for lunch, and had  the Wild Mushroom and Baby Spinach Sauté as a starter, a generous spectacle of veg with two crispy croutons, which delightfully soak up the tastiest, accompanying jus. Fittingly, this was followed up with steak, and in this case, a fillet Argentine black Angus, with a side of new potatoes and french beans. It was a choice selection (they mature their meat for up to six weeks!), tender to taste despite being medium to well-done, and made more flavoursome with a smudge of English mustard. Finally, a blueberry pie with creme fraiche topped off the meal; it was delightfully tart, yet slightly tamed by the cream dollop.

The entire meal for one plus tip came up to £50, so you’re not gonna get a budget lunch here; think chic eats  for a corporate crowd and altogether quite a lovely addition to the City dining scene.  (Words: MEC) 

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