In its new life, 150 years later, Heaton Butler and Bayne has been resurrected (from the ashes of The Forge) by the owners of La Deuxieme. At the helm is head chef Jonas Karlsson – who allegedly left his native Sweden after its economic rating was downgraded (let’s hope he doesn’t get wind of the UK’s recent lapse). He has previously graced the kitchen in Harvey Nichols. But this is a far cry from a department store. The surroundings are classy, a bar area graces the entrance and the spacious dining room is simply furnished. The friendly staff seat us and quickly advise on the best cocktail to try, Ceci’s Dream. We weren’t disappointed, and you could also go for the Bayne bloody Mary served with an oyster on the side.

The menu is not extensive but has seasonal written all over it. I opt for asparagus, hollandaise and poached egg – a classic that was creamy, rich and accompanied by an utterly delicious dill salad. My companion tried the fresh seafood salad, which was only slightly tainted by the flavourless prawns. For mains, we chose saddle of rabbit and dared to put the chefs through the risotto test. The rabbit saddle was cooked well and accompanied by soft polenta – not the most complimentary pairing but both cooked well. The pea and mint risotto was tasty and cooked as an Italian would expect.

For dessert, our elderflower mouse with shortbread and almond crumble was excellent, creamy and not overpowered by the fragrant flower. Doughnuts with caramel cream were not enough like the fairground variety for my taste, but made for a good sharing dessert all the same.

The main courses hover around the £17 mark – which isn’t unusual for central London. The surroundings and good quality food make this an intimate and actually quite romantic place to dine. There is even a ‘Madmen’ style drinks lounge in the basement, where you can be stylish and alluring, until you have one too many of those delicious cocktails that is… (Words: Laura Thornley)

For more info, visit: www.hbbrestaurant.co.uk

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This slick restaurant is behind Bond Street tube on the way up to Marylebone. The entrance is cloaked in a thick black curtain, beyond which stylish black and white tiles dot the floor and a long bar hosts clientele for food and drinks. We are led downstairs to the kitchen seating; front row seats at the Parilla. The chefs busy around the kitchen, tending the grill, building the plates; all with expert timing and professionalism. The wine list is chalked on a board and not surprisingly, features an extensive range of Malbec – both by the glass or carafe. But, we opt for house cocktails, Sweet Fernando and Chamame.

Although Argentinean rarely calls to mind anything other than beef, the menu is a healthy mix, rich in seafood and some less thoughtful vegetarian dishes. It’s a small plates place, which means you get to try a few different things. We order some homemade bread, provoletta and empanadas – which form our starter round. The bread comes in three kinds and makes the perfect accompaniment to the chewy rich proveletta, laced with honey and almonds. The empanadas are a little disappointing but the beef filling rich and delicious.

Next our Sous-vide pork belly arrives; a modern take on an ancient cooking technique (originally it would have been cooked in a stomach but now it’s more sealed plastic and stainless steel bain maries). It’s topped with chorizo and charred king prawn. The pork is utterly melt-in-the-mouth with the smoky oil of the chorizo matching the caramel flavours of the fat to a tee. It’s impossible not to try the beef – we order the flank steak with celeriac and bone marrow. Neither the bone marrow nor the celeriac were particularly noticeable but the beef was cooked to perfection; caramelised on the outside and blood pink on the inside. We also sample the garrapinada and beetroot, which is okay but pales into insignificance next to the meat dishes. Other orders flying out of the kitchen include the octopus and the chips provencal.

Zoilo is a great addition to the South American food craze: classy and delicious. Diego Lacquet has attempted to broaden our understanding of Argentinean, and he has, but only to the extent of highlighting the food from the coast. And for that reason, best to leave the vegetarians at home.

For more info, visit: www.zoilo.co.uk

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