For anyone operating a restaurant specialising in the cuisine of a particular country or culture, being considered ‘authentic’ by experts and ex-pats can be both a blessing and a burden. While a reputation for the truest tapas, realest rendang or mostverisimilitudinous Vietnamese usually results in a clamour for tables and healthy profits, get things wrong and…
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Covent Garden
In much the same way as people are always ‘rushed’ to hospital and champagne is always ‘quaffed’, it’s seemingly impossible for Polpo, Russell Norman and Richard Beatty’s Beak Street restaurant (as if you didn’t know that) to be described as anything other than ‘wildly’ popular. I should know – mea…