Joined by a pescetarian buddy, we worked our way through the compact and mid-priced menu which features what you’d usually expect from a seafood joint; oysters (we’ll get onto those later), fish and chips for the comfort-eaters, a few meat selections for the reluctant  and a variety of curious-sounding and experimental dishes, which suggests a chef who understands it never hurts to give  seabass and cod a bit of a kick.

For our starters, the bouillabaisse was strong to taste, but well-balanced with fresh tomatoes, while the crab cakes had a thai twist and were livened up by the most subtle of coconut sauces. However, our favourite was the  seafood escabache, a refreshingly chilled assortment of crayfish, scallops, octopus, avocado and plum tomatoes, accented with lemon balm.

It was also two-thumbs up for the mains, and where the autumn vegetable pie was the more homely offering, the eclectic ocean fish – with its combination of sea bass, cod, mussels and scallops – was a worthy special with an impeccable risotto.

Then came the oysters. In fairness, you’ve got to be into oysters to judge them and so it was a good thing we went for the oyster experience – a selection that’s partially-cooked and seasoned with your choice of yuzu gelée (a lemon and orange fusion from Japan), chorizo & sherry vinegar, tempura & sweet soy sauce or parmesan & horseradish.  The latter flavour was definitely the most distinctive, successfully masking the freshness and texture of such a unique delicacy.

Two brilliant  and beautifully presented desserts wrapped up the meal; the classic lemon tart with the delicious mojito foam and a guilty madagascan manjari chocolate & praline cake, with pickled cherries. These were enjoyed with the remarkable Gavi di Gavi Nuovo Quadro – an extremely clean and light white wine, recommended by one of the many wonderful waitresses here.

It was a very memorable feast – aren’t those the best? – and where it’d cost about  £120 with drinks for two people, it’s worth it for such great service and a quality effort in offering beautiful seafood in the heart of the city. (Words: Matilda Egere-Cooper) 

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