Search for content, post, videos

Somewhere you should eat… Mishkins, Covent Garden

Mishkins-PWF-3554

For anyone operating a restaurant specialising in the cuisine of a particular country or culture, being considered ‘authentic’ by experts and ex-pats can be both a blessing and a burden. While a reputation for the truest tapasrealest rendang or mostverisimilitudinous Vietnamese usually results in a clamour for tables and healthy profits, get things wrong and your faux French or ersatz Asian will make you the object of every food snob’s opprobrium.

Only a restaurateur with the supreme confidence and chutzpah of Russell Norman would dare to open a restaurant as wilfully, joyously inauthentic as Mishkin’s, described on its website as ‘a kind-of Jewish deli with cocktails’. Even as I write this, I can’t help but wonder if from conception to delivery Norman wasn’t chuckling knowingly to himself at the froth some critics would work themselves up into at just how un-kosher the place is, not only in the sense of the food not adhering properly to kashrut  – there’s a pork hotdog on the menu for G_d’s sake – but also in the liberties it takes with Jewish culinary tradition.

I make no claims to any level of expertise in this area (hell, in any area) so I really can’t tell you if the matzo balls are dense (or light) enough, if the salt beef has enough (or too much, or too little) fat, or if the oxtail cholent needs more or less seasoning. But to judge the food qua Jewish food is to completely miss the point of Mishkin’s, the point made by that all-important ‘kind-of’: this isn’t meant be an authentic Jewish deli, this is Norman’s own playful take on one – and oy is it fun…

To read the rest, click here to visit Hugh Wright’s blog, Twelvepointfivepercent.com – London Restaurant Reviews Of Real Discretion. 

Follow Hugh on Twitter: @HRWright

10 comments

  • I really wanted to make a quick note to be able to thank you for some of the remarkable pointers you are writing on this site. My extensive internet investigation has at the end of the day been paid with wonderful points to write about with my neighbours. I would claim that we readers actually are quite fortunate to exist in a wonderful site with many awesome people with good opinions. I feel somewhat fortunate to have encountered your web page and look forward to many more brilliant minutes reading here. Thanks again for all the details.

  • My spouse and i have been so joyful Emmanuel could carry out his preliminary research from your precious recommendations he discovered out of the site. It’s not at all simplistic just to choose to be freely giving thoughts which usually people today might have been trying to sell. Therefore we consider we have the website owner to be grateful to because of that. The illustrations you have made, the straightforward web site navigation, the relationships your site help instill – it is mostly exceptional, and it is facilitating our son and the family reason why that content is brilliant, and that’s quite essential. Thanks for the whole lot!

  • I needed to send you one very little observation to finally thank you so much yet again for your personal pleasant advice you’ve contributed on this site. This has been so pretty open-handed of you to supply easily just what many individuals might have marketed as an ebook to make some cash for themselves, chiefly seeing that you might well have tried it in case you decided. Those guidelines also acted to become easy way to recognize that other individuals have a similar dreams the same as mine to know the truth lots more around this condition. I am sure there are numerous more enjoyable instances up front for many who read your site.

  • I have to show my thanks to this writer for rescuing me from this scenario. As a result of surfing throughout the world-wide-web and coming across tips which were not beneficial, I thought my entire life was over. Existing without the answers to the difficulties you’ve fixed by means of your entire review is a critical case, as well as the ones which may have in a negative way affected my entire career if I had not noticed your blog post. Your own personal ability and kindness in handling all things was valuable. I don’t know what I would have done if I had not encountered such a stuff like this. I can at this point look ahead to my future. Thanks so much for the high quality and sensible guide. I won’t be reluctant to propose the sites to anybody who should receive assistance about this matter.

  • I in addition to my pals ended up analyzing the nice hints on your web page and the sudden I had an awful feeling I had not thanked the web site owner for them. These ladies were totally stimulated to read all of them and have now actually been taking advantage of those things. We appreciate you genuinely considerably kind as well as for getting variety of magnificent things millions of individuals are really desirous to know about. My very own sincere apologies for not expressing gratitude to sooner.

  • I intended to create you the very small remark just to thank you again on the exceptional secrets you’ve contributed in this article. It has been quite extremely open-handed of people like you to provide freely all numerous people might have offered as an e-book to help make some money for themselves, particularly considering that you might have done it if you ever desired. The tactics additionally served to become a great way to be aware that some people have the same fervor similar to my very own to find out a little more pertaining to this matter. I believe there are numerous more fun periods in the future for those who look into your blog post.

  • My husband and i have been really happy that Chris managed to deal with his preliminary research through the entire precious recommendations he grabbed out of the web site. It is now and again perplexing to just be offering tactics which people might have been making money from. And we also already know we have you to appreciate because of that. The main illustrations you made, the easy website menu, the relationships you help promote – it is many astonishing, and it’s aiding our son in addition to our family reason why this article is thrilling, which is incredibly fundamental. Thank you for the whole lot!

  • I in addition to my pals came studying the excellent things on your web page while all of a sudden developed a terrible feeling I never thanked the web blog owner for those secrets. All of the men came stimulated to learn all of them and now have honestly been enjoying these things. Thank you for turning out to be really helpful and also for having varieties of magnificent information millions of individuals are really desperate to discover. My personal honest regret for not saying thanks to sooner.

  • I have to express my appreciation for your kindness supporting those people that need assistance with in this content. Your very own dedication to getting the message around appears to be definitely advantageous and has specifically allowed most people just like me to arrive at their objectives. Your own helpful instruction entails much a person like me and even more to my mates. Thank you; from everyone of us.

  • Thank you for all your labor on this site. Gloria really likes going through research and it’s really easy to understand why. All of us learn all about the dynamic medium you give very helpful ideas by means of the blog and as well strongly encourage contribution from others on this issue then our child has been discovering so much. Take advantage of the remaining portion of the new year. You are performing a fantastic job.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *